Kichin: A Beacon of Light (and New-Korean Food) Beneath the M Train
I want you to remember the fairy tale, Goldilocks and the Three Bears. I also want you to think about the last time you walked into a restaurant or bar in your neighborhood. Got it? Good. Some things you may have noticed:
The interior and lighting. Did they give you trying-too-hard vibes, or did they simply hit?
Who you saw. Were you smacked with cold shoulders, or would you take shots with these people?
What it smelled like. Was it an olfactory assault, or did you want your clothes to be saturated with it?
The vibes. Were they just right?
The gang behind the self-proclaimed “mostly-Korean” restaurant, Kichin, have truly found that Goldilocks in the baby bear chair balance. From top to bottom, the food, space, and vibes are “juuuuust right”.
Kichin has been around the block. They’ve spent time as a nomadic tribe hosting popup kitchens in Williamsburg cool-kid haunts, skating under the Marcy Ave subway stop, all while deriving the most New York City version of samgak kimbap possible.
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A Real Quick History Lesson, As We Do
Brothers Bryan and Mike Moon opened Kichin with friends Hoon Smith and Kyuma Oshita, merging the powerful flavors of Korean cuisine with the careful precision of Japanese. These days the operation is also supported by Patricia Lee (formerly of Roberta’s), whippin’ in the kitchen, and Jason White (formerly of Per Se and Mission Chinese), tending to the natural wine oasis that is the bar program.
(Did I steal some of this from their site’s “About” section? Yes. Oh, and they moved to Bushwick. But I’ll get to that in a second.)
Upon opening their first location in Williamsburg (tucked under the Marcy Ave subway stop), Kichin found themselves inside a rice ball rolling down a snow-capped mountain, gaining momentum and growing quickly. Metaphorically appropriate, these dudes flew out to Norway to cater the 2016 X Games, ripping through more rice balls than the snowboarders ripping pow’ outside. Their kimbap were even given a nod in Bon Appetit’s 2016 restaurant trend rundown. The neighborhood grew to love and need their fried chicken, and other innovations like miso butter salmon at the time.
Forced to leave their sub-subway home after a hostile landlord shutdown, Kichin found itself a pop-up kitchen for a spell, balancing residencies at Kinfolk and Baby’s All Right, walking distance from their OG space on Broadway. But cramped kitchens in the back of venues tend to confine the greater aspirations of talented restauranteurs. And nobody puts Kichin in the corner.
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Kichin’s modern iteration is now nestled under the Central M stop in Bushwick. It’s a glowed up, dark-eyeliner wearing, found-itself-after-moving-deeper-into-Brooklyn version of their former Williamsburg space. Paired with Jason’s hyper-curated bar program, the place is now a proper dinner and drinks operation, hosting frequent events/parties. Bring a group of friends for dinner and the evening won’t end once the check lands. You might find yourselves staying through the rest of the night as, all of a sudden, CDJs light up the DJ booth and a Yaeji bassline drops.
Kichin is also no stranger to the city’s music scene, proven by their aforementioned residencies, along with collabs with MoMA PS1, Bubble T, and Boiler Room. (They support the culture too? Sign me up.)
I’ve had several nights where I’ve danced myself to ruin at Mood Ring, popped over next door to Kichin to chat with Jason and rehydrate with a glass of whatever wine he’s rocking with, a shot of something nice, or an innovative cocktail, then resume dancing with renewed vigor.
I can continue to wax poetic about the service and the space they’ve carved out, but the food... well, it‘d be a disservice to everyone involved if this wasn’t showcased. Here’s a rundown of some dishes and snacks I’ve had.
The main reason you read all this way…
Food
Fried Chicken
… leaving me absolutely disheveled, like a romp in somebody’s sheets. Battered in the lightest spring coat of flour, a side of house pickles, and a kimchi aioli make this a one-two-three punch. The fried cauliflower, smothered in a sweet and spicy orange dress, sits in this same camp, and is worth ordering alongside or by itself if your diet is of the veg variety. That also reminds me, this menu is very forgiving for vegetarians, the gluten-intolerant, etc.
Kimchi Fried Rice
A savory smoke-fest, featuring all the best parts of a comforting bibimbap, served in a classic dolsot (heated agalmatolite stone pot), continuing the cooking process long after it leaves the kitchen window. The crispy crust of rice that sears at the bottom is fit for kings, saturating with the flavors of hot dog (bear with me), kimchi, gochuhang and scallion all happily charring together. Heavy, with enough depth of flavor to make you forget that.
Our server Brian once appeared at our table like a horse mounted knight on a rescue mission and asked,
“Yo, we fucked up and made an extra fried rice. Y’all want this?”
“I - I love you.”
Tteokbokki (Dukbokki)
I came here with my friend Emily one night and we beelined for this. After a long, thoughtful chew, she had one word to say - “spaghetti-os”. In no way, shape or form should you let this deter you from ordering. Because she was spot on. This dish is comfort and nostalgia (even if you didn’t grow up with either spaghetti-os or dukbokki), balancing a semi-sweet and spicy umami flavor by way of melted mozzarella and fried halloumi. If you’re unfamiliar with dukbokki, this traditional Korean snack can either bathe or stir-fry chewy cakes of pulverized rice (called tteok) in a delicious spicy gochujang based sauce. Savory elements are added by way of anchovy stock, dried kelp and a splash of sesame oil. Here at Kichin, this sauce is translated into a bubbling pot of warm-your-insides broth. A staple dish on streets and in bars across Korea.
Never don’t order sourdough on the side with this (Never don’t order sourdough on the side, in general). It’s the perfect vehicle for dipping and sopping up any extra broth that’s accumulated on your share plate. Oh, did I mention the bread is from Ops? And that it comes with anchovy butter slathered on top?
Spicy Seafood Noodles
Menacingly red broth acts as a volcanic bath for mussels, squid, and shrimp, who’ve decided to spend the evening in their patio hot tub. The thick, chewy noodles are as absorbent as Bounty two-ply (this is a good thing), and carries the flavor exactly where it belongs. Your mouth.
Pork Belly
We love a good build-your-own ssäm operation. This is it, chief. Perilla leaf and lettuce are a fresh vehicle for beautifully crisped pork belly, and a house made sunflower ssamjang (thick, spicy, distinctly Korean paste to accompany wrapped food). Have it your way, bébé.
Broccoli Rabe
Under-seasoned vegetables are the devil’s playground. Thankfully, this rabe surges against that on all levels. This is nuclear umami, spice, and charred crispiness that makes everything reeeal nice. The accompanying chili crisp and pepita cream, streaked along the side like a Monet paint stroke, make this a proper addition to the table and not just another “we should probably have at least one vegetable” side-order.
Chrysanthemum Salad
Holy hell, nostalgia. I’m not sure if any of my fellow Asians also grew up drinking those Vita chrysanthemum tea boxes, but the nectar-sweet, floral flavor of my childhood finds itself into this dish, doing its very best to offset the chrysanthemum and endive’s natural bitterness. A welcome crunch comes by way of burdock chips, providing textural contrast - an integral feature of any salad worth its salt.
Kabocha. Squash. Pie.
I mean. Come on. I’m getting serious Agent Dale Cooper vibes with the pie+coffee special they offer on the brunch menu. Definitely seasonal, and definitely urgent that you get a slice of this decadent, flaky, dressed-in-barley-cream Kabocha pie before winter’s over. Also, happy birthday, Cole.
Always better with friends.
Kichin is a neighborhood joint, through and through. It’s the furthest thing from frilly and it doesn’t cater to anyone’s agenda. You’re made to feel casually taken care of without feeling like you’re under parental supervision - I would hang in the lower level all evening, laid out in the booth with some small-batch keg content from Hudson Valley Brewery and spicy rice cakes, if my loitering didn’t prevent others from enjoying these vibes too.
Come out for the fried chicken, bring some friends, do some shots, and stay for (literally) everything else.
Don’t worry about staying past closing. Mood Ring’s right next door.
Give them love, I know you got extra.
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